I Can't Wait To Leave Barcelona
Ok, now on to the second part of my travel last week (yup, I also went to Barcelona. Surely you all didn't think I just stayed in Berlin? Anyway, I had uploaded all the photos I took in my photo album) .
Initially, I thought of giving this post the title "I dreamt of Barcelona", but immediately decided on the present title even before I leave the airport upon arrival and has never changed my mind since.
Maybe it's because I just came from charming Berlin and can't help comparing the two cities, or bad planning on my side got myself into a hotel that was at the outskirt of the city requiring me to travel 30 min by train into the city every day (the hotel was actually quite nice though, so is the location), but the very touristy feel and the hustle and bustle of the city did much more to form my opinion of Barcelona. The not-so-friendly locals also contributed to my view of the city too.
In Barcelona, you can't find a single tourist trap; the whole city is a tourist trap. They could just might as well put a big box in the airport with a sign writing "Welcome to Barcelona. Please kindly empty your wallet into the box. Have a nice day". When you walk along La Rambla (the iconic pedestrian mall) and see stalls after stalls selling stuffs like postcards, pictorial books, maps and all other things that the local won't buy, you know this is a tourist city; and when you see the works of Gaudi (the city's most beloved architect) being shamelessly over-exploited, once again by shops after shops far and near his masterpieces (like those shops around Park Güell), selling things like the miniature model of the multicolored mosaic dragon fountain he designed, you know this city is selling out to tourists.
There is nothing much authentic about the city - ok, so the bullet holes by machine guns on the walls of the castle left behind during Franco's invasion was real, but what about everything else?
The Arc de Triomf and the park nearby was built for the 1908 World Fair (in other words, for tourists). The Olympic stadium was rebuilt for the 1992 Olympic, so is some other surrounding buildings, and they are all tourist attractions now (picture above is taken at Montjuïc, where the stadium is built). Then the Barceloneta, the beautiful beach area of the city. This is where the athletes stayed during the Olympics, and it's also during that time, the city decided to import sand from countries like Morocoo to fill up the coastal area there to turn it into a beachfront. Yes, the whole stretch of the beach on Barceloneta is man-made; it's beautiful, it's nice, it's not there 15 years ago. All these have a big "made for tourists" feel for it. Locals, of course, also frequent these places. How else would the business surivive when the tourists are not here?
Barcelona has a long history, but it's not shown. There's no much on the street to show it's identity, culture or history. Nothing much to show the Barcelona or Catalonia identity. Instead what you see are modern buildings and structure that are so indistinguishable from what you will see in any other modern city. The tree-lined pedestrian walkway of La Rambla; the crowd of locals and tourist streaming through the streets; the looks and appearances of the daily commuters in the subway; these all come together to give me a very familiar feeling. I really don't like it.
The locals also didn't give a good impression. I don't know, maybe this is typical of any big, modern city, but the people of Barcelona seems to be too busy to be bothered by anything else and even their service personals have this unfriendly "couldn't be bothered" attitude; there is no smile, no "hello", "goodbye" and they all seems like wanting you to get out of their face ASAP. Here's a couple of examples. At the airport, I asked the person at hotel information counter how to get to my hotel, and the person just flatly replied "take a taxi, it's outside Barcelona" and immediately looked away in another direction. Then, on another day, I approached a subway officer in the station, hoping to ask him something. I said "hello?" and the officer, instead of replying, looked at this schedule card on his hand, apparently hoping I would just disappear. When I didn't, he replied, uninterested, "sí?" (yes in Spanish) . When I asked him did he speak English, he replied "no" (same meaning as in English) and returned to looking at his schedule. This time I disappear.
Then there were these other shady characters I encountered: one of them approached me ("one minute, one minute") for no apparent reason and spewed a series of vulgarities when I continued to walk away (I don't need to know Catalan/Spanish to know it was vulgar language he was letting out), while the other was a rouge tour guide ("Too hot. Had you seen Sagrada Família? One person too hot, maybe two person not so hot.") whom I bumped into outside the Nou Camp stadium, perhaps thinking he could bring me around and bleed me dry.
Yes, I was at the Nou Camp stadium, the biggest football stadium in Europe and home to FC Barcelona. It was something that initially I kinda wanted to brag about, even if it's to good old friends like CY, WL and YY. However, I scrapped that idea. The stadium tour wasn't fantastic. It was just another stadium, only that it's bigger. The away team changing room was interesting, so was the tunnel (there's a little chapel at the side) and the team benches. Other than that, there's not much else. They do have a nice museum (most visited in Barcelona, but of course) which did a pretty good job in presenting the club's history and it's role and relation with the Barcelona society. Sadly, most of the visitors were not so interested.
I did of course had some happy moments. The bike tour I took around the city on the second day had the best tour group among the three that I was in during my tour in both Berlin and Barcelona. It also had a very funny tour guide. We started the tour at 7pm, then towards the end chilled out at this beachfront cafe, talked and joked for more than an hour till 11pm before we returned the bicycles. The group then went on a pub crawl, which I sadly had to miss as I need to catch a last train back to my hotel (damn my poor planning!).
Then there was this very enjoyable dinner on the third day that I had in this restaurant recommended to me by the guide (always ask the locals where to eat. Or at least someone who had stayed at the place long enough). The restaurant was called La Fonda. When you see locals starting to queue up outside a restaurant in a small side alley 30 minutes before they open for business, you know it's good. According to the locals, this is a daily occurrence so much so that the restaurant don't take reservation. One surprising thing about the restaurant was that most of the waiters and waitresses were Chinese. I spoke to the waitress serving me in Mandarin (sounds Taiwanese), and perhaps because of that, I received good service from her ("washroom at the second floor is more convenient", "be careful, it's hot", all said in a friendly manner). Then of course, there was the food: the fish cream soup was rich and tasty and the paella, which was why I was there for, was absolutely delicious. I washed it all down with half a litre of Sangría, which I am beginning to find it to be a very interesting drink; somehow fruits in red wine makes sense.
Then there was this Travel Bar with a friendly waiter (apparently an expat himself also) and seats outside in the courtyard which was kinda like a peaceful quiet area away from the hustle and bustle of the main street.
Overall, Barcelona is a beautiful city, but I don't have a good experience there. Even though the city has a long history, it doesn't show it. Instead, what is shown is a modern city that is exploiting everything it has and doing everything for the tourists and visitors. The whole city has this artificial feel to it that I don't like; it also has a familiar feeling that I don't like. Barcelona is a beautiful city, just that it's not for me.